Archive for May, 2006

Willow Hill Farm AUDIO

So we listened to the audio of Willow Hill and it is pretty cool! Willow and Dave took us for a walk down to the sheep and answered some questions and, as background noise goes, this is nice!! Hope you enjoy…

Willow Hill Host Cycle

(1 min)

Add comment May 30th, 2006

Everona Dairy

Name: Everona DairyAging Room
Owner: Pat Elliott
Location: Rapidan, VA
Animals: 100 East Friesians
Cheeses/Products: Piedmont (there are a number of specialty cheeses made by adding various herbs to the Piedmont recipe or smoking the cheeses after they are made), Old Rag, Stonyman

We were greeted by Carrie Ganoe when we pulled into Everona Dairy. She makes cheese there four days a week and the owner Dr. Pat Elliott makes cheese as often as she can when not tending to her patients. Yes, she is not only a sheep dairy farmer; she also has a full time medical practice which is located on the farm, adjacent to her home. The dairy at Everona actually began because Dr. Elliott bought a Border collie puppy on impulse one weekend back in 1992. Approximately a year after, she bought some sheep because the puppy needed something to do.

Dr. Elliott was a hobbyist cheesemaker for years, using milk from her neighbor’s cow. She had also worked in a sheep barn when she was in college so it wasn’t such a stretch for her to consider making cheese from the sheep milk from her own animals. As you can imagine, running a medical practice and a farmstead cheesemaking operation is a bit much for one person to handle. Over the years, Dr. Elliott has had a few people on to assist with milking and cheesemaking. Last July, Carrie drove out to the farm to meet Dr. Elliott and see the operation. Having worked for a couple years in restaurant kitchens and also retail cheese shops, Carrie was feeling an urge to get a closer look at where cheese is made and what it takes to produce it. After spending the afternoon speaking with Dr. Elliott, they agreed that it would be a good fit for Carrie to come on board and make cheese four days a week at Everona.Carrie

We didn’t make it to the farm in time to see Carrie making cheese that afternoon; she was finishing up cleaning from her second batch that day. The vat they use is a 20 gallon stainless steel stock pot, so during peak season Carrie often makes cheese multiple times each day to keep up with milk production. We watched as she cleaned up the heating element they use to warm and cool the milk and carved the batch numbers into the cheeses that had been made the day prior. She walked us through the aging room and around the farm.

Carving the cheese

The following day we got to spent a few hours with Dr. Elliott while she made a batch of Piedmont (the ACS award winner in 2005). She often makes cheese during lunch hour, before her afternoon patients arrive. She had a hunch that we might slow her down a bit and so she cleared her afternoon schedule so we could follow her around closely and ask all of our questions. After cheesemaking we sat down with Dr. Elliott to taste the range of cheeses made at Everona. Their cheeses are sold at the local farmers’ market and also at some retail stores around the country. Although the herd has grown considerably, Dr. Elliott shows no sign of slowing down…and she hasn’t stopped breeding border collies either.

Dr Elliot

 

1 comment May 30th, 2006

Vermont Butter & Cheese AUDIO

So we have finished what some would call a more “podcast” style audio piece… a tour of the new production facility at Vermont Butter and Cheese. The audio represents a portion of what we recorded.

Audio Tour VBC

(The piece is approximately 10 minutes)

1 comment May 24th, 2006

FireFly Farms: handmade like no other

Name: FireFly Organic Farmcheese molds
Owners: Mike Koch, Pablo Solanet, Ron & Beth Brenneman
Location: Bittinger, Maryland
Animals: Recently sold off most of their 200 plus mixed herd. Currently purchasing milk from four, local Amish goat dairies
Cheeses/Products: Merry Goat Round, Allegheny Chevre, Mountain Top Bleu, Buche Noir…plus two aged goat milk cheeses that are only sold at farmers’ markets
More info: www.fireflyfarms.com

We arrived at FireFly Farms one week after they had made a big change in their operation: no more goats on the farm. After much debate, the six people who collectively run the farm decided that the cost of labor involved in caring for 200 plus goats, the complexity of expanding the herd for more milk, and the ease of acquiring high quality goat milk from other sources in their area meant that it was time to sell the herd. Andy, the office manager (this is the closest we could get to a job title that was loose enough to include all that she does), was concerned that we would be disappointed with this change on the farm while we were thinking- how much more interesting does it get to walk onto the scene after such a huge change?

FireFly made the Cheese by Hand cut because of its unique ownership setup. Four friends Mike Koch, Pablo Solanet, Ron & Beth Brenneman came together to combine their respective expertise- cheesemaking and dairying. One of the things we have noticed in small-scale cheesemaking is the burnout potential, especially with farmstead operations. We were intrigued to see if having four people on board meant a more sustainable lifestyle and to understand how well a farmstead cheese operation could support two families.

So we hauled our lot out to the western most point of Maryland. Although the landscape is incredible and we drove through the tip of the Appalaichan Mountains on our way there, the overcast and stormy weather made the situation seem bleak. The road out to the farm is beautiful with rolling hills and loads of grazing cattle. We arrived just in time for clean up after the final batch of cheese was made. There are three full-time employees at FireFly: Matt, the current head cheesemaker (and Andy’s husband) and his apprentice, a 17 year old local named Dan. Matt gave us a tour and explained a bit more about the selling of the herd and what that has meant for the farm. At this point FireFly is receiving goats milk from four Amish goat dairies one to two times each week, storing it in a bulk tank, and pulling from that throughout the week making cheese two and three times each day. Like many other American artisan cheesemakers, FireFly cannot keep up with the demand for their cheeses.

Buche Noir

Now that FireFly is receiving milk from other farms they can determine the quantity of milk that they have the capacity to turn into cheese. This is both a luxury and a burden (projecting sales is not always easy) although everyone involved seems comfortable with the arrangement they have made with their suppliers. When they first started using milk from the local Amish dairies they had to take all milk being produced as they had no way of taking what they needed and then getting the rest to another producer. They were overwhelmed with milk for a couple months and forced to develop some new cheeses- they made two styles of aged goat’s milk cheeses- both are tommes, one is a washed rind- which turned out to be fantastic. Not only did they get two great new products from this too-much-milk predicament but they also retooled their relationship with the farms and connected with a milk distributer who now collects milk from the Amish dairies, drops off only what is needed at FireFly, and then takes the remaining milk onto other goat milk cheese producers. A winning situation for all parties involved. Matt sent us on our way with bellies full of aged goats milk cheeses- mmmm- which we topped off with some excellent, surprisingly authentic Mexican food at El Camelo in the lovely little town of Frostburg (Frostburg State University anyone?).

The following morning we arrived in time to watch Dan put the Allegheny Chevre into cloth sacks, work some of the whey out of them and hang them to drain. Dan keeps the cheesemaking flowing a couple mornings each week while Matt drives their orders to Pittsburgh. The chevre had been cultured and set (rennet added) the night before and then left in the warm make room overnight. Another batch of milk had already been pumped into the pasteurizer so that by the time the chevre was hanging the milk in the pasteurizer would be ready to culture and set so that the next batch of cheese, soft-ripened Merry Goat Rounds, could be hooped later that afternoon. After clean up from chevre bagging and hanging, we watched Dan prepare for logging. Logging? Yes, logging.

Matt and Dan had alluded to the antiquated method they use to create their completely handmade chevre logs and buche noir. Having seen other cheesemakers make chevre logs during our trip we assumed they had a hand-crank extruder. It is even more “handmade” than that. Dan covered the work table with long strips of plastic wrap and began to lump chevre onto it, gradually forming it into a tube shape. Once he had a strip that ran almost the length of the table he wrapped the plastic around the fresh cheese, twisted the ends to seal them and began to stretch the tube by running his hand along it. “I had to lift for four weeks to develop the muscle set to do this,” he explained while we picked our chins up off the floor. So we filled the next two stations on the assembly line to help out; Michael unwrapped the snake-like logs and cut them according to the cheese ruler while I wrapped each one in plastic and stacked them neatly on a tray so they could be moved into cold storage before being wrapped in cheese paper and shipped out.

Dan Logging

The by-hand bit doesn’t end here. Once all the chevre was logged, cut, and plastic wrapped, we pulled the trays out and with each log we had to wrap them in cheese paper, attach an Allegheny Chevre label, stamp them with both the julian code and the batch number, and lastly, attach the hand-written weight sticker. Uhm. Wow. And to think that on a normal Tuesday, with Matt making deliveries, Dan would have done this work on his own. Impressive. By the time we had finished this up Matt was back from Pittsburgh and the two cheesemakers got busy with cutting, draining, and hooping curds for Merry Goat Rounds. As with all cheesemaking we’ve seen this is the part that goes by in the blink of an eye; before you know it you are back to cleaning.

Michael and I prepared to interview Matt and Andy who are managing the day to day operations at the creamery. We left Dan to prep another vat of chevre that would sit through the evening and be ready for bagging and draining the following morning. Michael asked him if he thought he would stick with cheesemaking for a while…I’ll paraphrase his answer- I started working when I was 12 (he was home schooled so his scheduled allowed him to do this) I’ve worked construction, I’ve worked as a butcher in a slaughterhouse and eventually I asked myself what kind of work I’d still be wanting to do when I’m 40. This is hard work but the temperature swing is only 50 degrees and that is better than standing outside on a roof in freezing rain and sleet. Plus I got in on the ground floor here- I’m going to stick around this place.

FireFly is lucky to have him- we’d be happy to log alongside him anyday.

Add comment May 24th, 2006

Hendricks Farm

Name: Hendricks FarmTrent Hendricks
Owners: Trent and Rachel Hendricks
Location: Telford, Pennsylvania
Animals: 36 Ayreshires and 2 Jerseys, 100 Saanen and Alpine goats (not yet on their new farm), a few working Horses, at least 10 pigs, and a handful of chickens
Cheeses/Products: Cabriejo, Goadacious, Bluebells, Ticklemeblue, Bavarian Swiss, Gruyere, Telford Tomme, Telford Reserve, Aged Gouda, Parmesan, Cow Pies, Cheddar Blue, Pub Cheddar, BlueBeard, Franconia Jack, CaerPhilly, Asiagoat. Grass-fed beef, goat, lamb, whey-fed pork, eggs, raw cow and goat’s milk, cream, whey, buttermilk, yogurt, butter, cottage cheese, cheese curd.
More info: www.hendricksfarmsanddairy.com

Trent Hendricks is a first generation farmer in a family of real estate developers. He and his wife Rachel (and their four children) are creating something we should all be paying attention to in eastern Pennsylvania. Last November they relocated their farm to a spot about two miles down the road from the original operation.

The farm has grown out of the Hendricks’ interest in having food for their own family that is produced in a truly sustainable way, meaning ecologically and financially. Trent is committed to continually reducing their reliance on fossil fuels. When we arrived he was out by one fo the old farm structures with his daughter watching the pigs and checking on the young calves and newborn horse. It doesn’t sound so different from another farm until Trent explains that the horses are working horses and he shows us the new John Deere manure spreader he recently acquired. It is a horse-drawn model with steel tires- selected for its independance from petroleum products. He also confirms that the main reason he brought pigs onto the farm was to have an outlet for the whey from their cheesemaking. A local bakery has partnered with the farm by giving them their day old breads and scraps to feed to the pigs.

We walked the property with Trent for the next couple hours. The highlights as we saw them were:

  • Heating for the parlor, cheesemaking facility, offices, farm store, etc. is produced by a digitally controlled wood burning furnace. The furnace heats water which then travels through pipes throughout the building and there are fans can be turne don in each room to blow air over the pipes to create warm air.
  • They built a state-of-the-art pit-style milking parlor with two interesting features- both of them involve iodine. The high pressure hose that mixes water with iodine to spray down equipment in the parlor and the iodine mixed with air to make foam that is used to clean the teats.
  • Their custom designed barn takes advantage of natural cross breezes to keep the area cool and comfortable for cows. Trent got the construction crew to use the paneling that was intended for the side to be used as a roof addition that creates a small sheltered area for storing and feeding hay.
  • Trent is making all 17 of his cheeses in a 70 gallon vat and using an old fashioned press for his hard cheeses.
  • There are plans for an on-site demo kitchen where there will be cooking courses that use foods from the farm.

Press

At Hendricks they are milking 32 Ayreshires who are strictly grass fed. Trent has them on a rotational grazing program. After they finish grazing in a paddock, sheep go through and finish the grass- taking it lower (which improves the regrowth) and also helping to manage parasites. When different species go out on grass the parasite’s host cycle is broken.
As for the cheeses, Trent is producing an impressive range of styles of cheeses: pressed and soft-ripened and also some surface ripened blue cheeses. And to us, he is curious enough that he will continue to expand his line of cheeses. We finished up our tour with a big tasting of more than ten cheeses. The variety of textures make his offering a beautiful selection. The bad news about the cheeses (for those of us not so close to eastern PA) is that they are sold almost entirely on the farm. The good news about them is that when you do go to the farm you will be richly rewarded with promising cheeses and all of the other products available for sale: raw cow and goats milk, butter, cream, yogurt, eggs, beef, chicken, lamb, whey-fed pork, and goat. The bonus? These are all foods that you can feel good about purchasing- both because they are delicious and because your money will be supporting a farm that is taking the best of old practices into the new age of agriculture.

Cheese Spread

1 comment May 23rd, 2006

Where are we anyways?

Answer: Charlotte, NC

Three weeks in and we are still enjoying ourselves although any ideas we had about this being some kind of vacation are totally gone. We have been doing some serious farm hopping and have finally learned that, despite our best efforts, our posts to the site will always be about 7-10 days behind the actual visit. Today we’ll put up Hendricks Farm which we visited all the way back on the 13th. What a bunch of slackers, right? First of all, this country is big- I know everyone knows that but you get to know it in a different way when you are on the road- so the getting-from-one-farm-to-the-next is taking up some hours. Secondly, much to the dismay of cityfolk, not all farmers feel the need to have high speed internet access! But we’ve decided we don’t care because they have other things we LOVE like mad cooking skills, grass-fed beef, farm-raised chickens (and their eggs), whey-fed pork, and let’s not forget those things outside that take up space and grow things….gardens. So we will press on, doing our best, and filling our bellies with cheese, farm forage and meats (I will write about my shift from vegetarianism during week one at some point- but the farm posts come first).

Just to keep y’all informed (we are in the South): We swapped our minivan rental for a lease-takeover (see our post about that), we’ve continued to have insane ice cream (one of our biggest “incidentals” in the budget), we’ve tasted multiple kinds of moonshine, and we even ate at a Vietnamese restaurant in central North Carolina where we were clearly the only lame-o’s who didn’t speak Vietnamese. We’re heading south today, breaking up the drive to southern Georgia- we will let you know if we find anything amazing in Athens where we hope to lay our cheese heads tonight.

Add comment May 23rd, 2006

Cheese rig

Last week we got a hold of the CheesebyHandMobile. It was, of all places, in New Jersey. We wanted to have it for the entire tripMonkey but because of the lameness of Lease Trader, our paperwork took two and a half times as long as promised. So although it was fun for our friends to see us in a minivan, those days are over. Many thanks to our new best friend Kellie at Toyota Financial Services in Iowa- she heard our woes and expedited everything so we could spend last Friday at the DMV in New York City. Special shout out to the lovely couple who parted with their royal blue Highlander earlier than expected and wished us safe travels as we pulled it out of their drive. So far it has rocked Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia & North Carolina - keep an eye out for us…We are being lead by a stellar super hero monkey who also serves as our parking meter/toll road bank.

Add comment May 23rd, 2006

Westfield Farm: Changing Horses…er, goats

Bob_DebbieName: Westfield Farm
Owners: Bob & Debbie Stetson
Location: Hubbardston, Massachussetts
Animals: Westfield Farm gets it’s milk from four local goat dairies and cow dairies
Cheeses: Hubbardston Blue, Blue Log, Fresh Goat Cheeses (with various flavors - we highly recommend the Wasabi and Chocolate), Bluebonnet, Camembert, and many others
More Info: www.chevre.com

When we called Bob Stetson to confess that a 3pm arrival at Westfield Farm was a long shot, he graciously invited us to join him and his wife Debbie for dinner that evening. So we slogged through Boston rush hour traffic and pulled into a hotel near their farm where we had an interesting chat with the receptionist about the cheeses at Westfield Farm. She is a native of Hubbardston (where the farm is located) and said that one of her childhood friends who now lives out in California called her one day to tell her that a cheese was not only being made in their hometown but also written about in a national food magazine. This was clearly a point of curiosity and pride for them both- as she said, “Almost no one even knows where Hubbardston Massachusetts is, let alone that there is cheese being made there.” Kind of the classic tale of many small American cheesemakers- people across the country might know about them before members of their immediate community do.

The Stetson home is situated in a clearing near the top of a rolling hill in a town called Hubbardston. The house they live in is literally as old as our country and still in beautiful condition. Bob and Debbie moved here from Boston approximately ten years ago to take over the cheesemaking operation from Bob and Letty Kilmoyer who started the farm approximately ten years prior.

Westfield_Farm

As the story goes, Bob Kilmoyer (a university math professor) was asked by one of his students to watch a few of his goats for the summer and the student never returned- at least not for the goats- and thus began Westfield Farm. The herd grew, an entire line of cheeses were developed (not to mention a market for specialty goat milk cheeses), and a number of employees came on to work the farm and live with the Kilmoyers. Nearly a decade later, the workload and cooperative living got to be too much for the Kilmoyers and they decided to sell the goats and place a small ad in the Boston Globe for a goat cheesemaking business.

The Stetsons had been working in shipping in Boston and Bob had an increasing interest in shifting his work away from selling services- he wanted to produce something tangible. He saw the ad in the Globe and it piqued his interest. They drove out to visit and although they had never even tasted goat cheese, they saw the creamery as a viable business. So they moved in with the Kilmoyers shortly after that and learned about milk collection, cheesemaking and distribution. Approximately one month later the Stetsons were living the dream. Over the last ten years they have nearly tripled the volume of cheese produced on the farm. They made additions onto the cheesemaking facility shortly after taking over and now use the old barn for packaging and cold storage.

Westfield gets milk from four local goat dairies. These dairies have evolved because Westfield Farm created a local market for goat milk. A couple of the dairies they work with shifted from cow dairying to goats because there is now more money in selling goats milk for cheese than selling fluid cows milk. The weekly make schedule seems relatively set and since most of the cheeses are fresh (less than 60 days old) the majority of their cheese are pasteurized.

Ten years into the business Bob and Debbie are still encouraged by the tactile nature of what they do. They modestly give nearly all the credit to the Kilmoyers who, for all intents and purposes, established the farm, the vision, and got the cheese on the radar of retailers and restaurants. That said, it is rare to find people willing to take over an established business who understand which pieces they should tinker with and which they should leave alone. Lucky for all consumers of Westfield Farm cheeses, the Stetsons are indeed that kind of people. We will take their modesty so long as they continue to pump out their delectable line of goat and cow milk cheeses.

Hubbardston_Blue

Add comment May 19th, 2006

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