Posts filed under 'Philosophy'

Sasha’s presentation on Cheesemaking in the Northeast

American Cheese SocietyOne of the general sessions this year was about cheesemaking in the Northeast. Clark Wolf who has a NYC based company that does restaurant and hospitality consulting was our moderator and did a great job of synthesizing information from the three presentations and posing broader questions to us all at the end. Louis Aird of Saputo in Montreal shared the history of cheese production in Canada with us and Jeff Roberts, author of the Atlas of American Artisan Cheese shared some facts and statistics about cheesemakers in the Northeast that he’d collected during his research for the book.

My ten minute talk was based on findings from our tour last summer. Below is a basic outline of my talk with audio pieces laid in where I played them. Have a read and a listen.

The Cheese by Hand lens: Our project only looked at producers making cheese by hand. We made every effort to cover the major milk types- cow, sheep, goat- and to represent the density of cheesemaking in certain regions (i.e. we saw more dairies in Wisconsin, Vermont, and California than anywhere else).

In the Northeast we visited the following farms in this order: Jasper Hill Farm, Twig Farm, Vermont Butter & Cheese, Willow Hill Farm, Appleton Creamery, Westfield Farm, and Cato Corner Farm. All are first generation cheesemakers, two are farmstead, three use milk from their own herds and buy in milk to supplement, and two are purchasing all of their milk.

These producers are, in many ways, representative of those we visited around the country- they come from diverse background and face many of the same issues as their colleagues in the Midwest, Pacific Northwest, and even the South. I’ll cover three larger topics that came up everywhere and explain to you how the Northeasterners had a unique perspective on each.

First: The loss of landscape. This includes not only the land but all the services that support farms- large animal vets, mechanics, and slaughterhouses). The audio clip below features Michael Lee (Twig Farm), and Willow Smart and David Phinney (Willow Hill Farm).

Loss of Farms

The terminology- working landscape- is something we only heard in the Northeast. Maybe their connection to the landscape comes from an awareness of the rich history of dairying and farming in the region? Ultimately on this issue we felt that the producers in this area were ‘on message’ meaning that everyone had similar thoughts and desires to see the land back in use for agriculture.

Second: An eye towards their competition (Europe). Cost of Business clip starts with Allison Hooper (Vermont Butter & Cheese), Caitlin Hunter (Appleton Creamery), Michael lee (Twig Farm). Educating the public starts with Caitlin (AC), Debbie Stetson (Westfield Farm), Mateo Kehler (Jasper Hill Farm), Michael Lee (TF).

Cost of Business Educating the public

Cheesemaking is expensive everywhere but the reference point for NE cheesemakers is always Europe- whether they are discussing healthcare, cost of infrastructure, or subsidies. This may happen because the two big markets are NYC and Boston, both of which have a bounty of imported cheeses. One stinging factor is that there is a perception that most European cheeses are made by hand- Michael Lee pointed out in another part of our interview that EU cheeses that are made in the way he makes his cheeses in Vermont would not be cheaper. There is a serious educational component for these cheesemakers- not just about cheese but about the state of agriculture in our own country.

Third: The concept of local. This word is as loose as “natural” or “artisan”- listen to how differently it is used by these producers. Some call their products local when all the inputs are local and some use the term local to define the inputs and the market where it is sold. In this audio clip you will hear Michael Lee (TF), Mateo Kehler (JHF), and Mark Gillman (Cato Corner Farm).

Local

The NE region is going to push the word local and possibly force it to be defined. Again, this has a lot to do with the two big metropolitan markets within (NY, Boston) because clientele there can support the reclaimation of the working landscape. NE was the only place where we heard producers talking about AOC cheeses- about products that must be created in a specific place- maybe also a result of the proximity and comparison to European products in the market.

In closing- some thoughts from NE producers about unifies them and what they imagine is in store for the future of artisan cheesemaking… You will hear Willow Smart (WHF) and Michael Lee (TF).

Wrap up

Add comment August 9th, 2007

Appleton Creamery AUDIO

So audio takes a while to parse through… that is why we are just now getting to Appleton Creamery! These were all recorded while Caitlin made cheese (the metal noise is her stiring the heated curd). Each is around 1 minute.

Philosophy

Daughter

Why they sell local

Add comment June 21st, 2006

Jasper Hill Philosophy

Mateo

After listening to all the audio we recorded at Jasper Hill, a consistent theme emerged: the philosophy of terroir. But not just terroir that we hear when dealing with taste but terroir in the most fundamental sense… this land, this area, this community. The fierce determination and pride of looking to the local rather than the easy and accustomed path of the global.

We cut a few pieces from our interview with Mateo.

Loss of Farming

Local Grass

Our Response
**For those that are new to the cheese world, we will be building a glossary of terms for things like “AOC” (which is a reference to European system of classifications for things like cheese and wine - Comte and Beaufort are their own AOC as are many established cheeses) and will post it in our “Pages” section and reference it as needed.

1 comment March 7th, 2006

Cheese by Hand

Cheese by Hand was conceived to better understand the American artisan cheesemaker.

American cheese is the strongest it has ever been, and people are beginning to see the quality that come from American makers.

We (Sasha and Michael) will be traveling across America interviewing cheesemakers who are making handmade cheese… All milk types… All farm sizes… In as many states as possible.

3 comments January 26th, 2006


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